Asphalt Paving and Sealcoat  Blog

Repairing or Replacing After Winter

By JAY ROMANO (New York Times)

After one of the most turbulent winters in years, many homeowners are discovering that their driveways have fallen victim to the freeze-thaw cycle.

As snow melts, some of the runoff seeps into cracks and crevices that may be present in an otherwise sturdy-looking driveway. Then, when temperatures drop back below freezing, water trapped inside those cracks and under the driveway expands as it freezes, causing further cracking, crumbling and even heaving - and setting the stage for even more water infiltration and more damage when the next cycle occurs.

There are a number of options for repairing or replacing a damaged driveway.

"What you have to do to repair a driveway depends on how big the cracks and holes are," said John Fix, the owner of Cornells True Value Hardware in Eastchester, N.Y.

Mr. Fix said that narrow cracks - those no wider than one-quarter inch - could often be filled with liquid crack-fillers sold in most hardware stores and home centers. "If the cracks are real deep, you should backfill them with sand first," he said.

Slightly larger cracks, Mr. Fix said, can be filled with thicker material that can be troweled into the crack. The material, a tarlike substance with a puttylike consistency, is usually sold in one-gallon cans and costs about $7 a gallon.

For holes in a driveway, he said, it is usually necessary to fill the opening with a patching material and then tamp the material down to compress it as much as possible. Mr. Fix pointed out that before filling a hole, any debris must be cleaned away and any crumbling or loose asphalt removed from the edges.

"You almost have to make it worse to make it better," Mr. Fix said. "But the more work you put into it, the longer the repair will last."

Homeowners who do not have the equipment to tamp down the patching material, he said, can improvise.

"You can take a sheet of plywood, put it over the patched hole, and park the car on it for a couple of days," he said. Mr. Fix added that in most cases, the more expensive patching material adhered better and lasted longer than less expensive material. "You can usually tell the quality of patching material by picking up the bag," he said. "The better stuff flexes; the cheaper stuff is hard as a rock. Prices range from $5 to $9 a 60-pound bag."

While filling and patching cracks and holes will provide temporary relief for a problem driveway, it is difficult to make such repairs without leaving tiny cracks and fissures that will allow water to penetrate - and freeze - next year. There is a way, however, to patch an asphalt driveway and leave the surface nearly as good as new.

Thomas Eosso, an owner of Eosso Brothers Paving in Matawan, N.J., said that a machine that uses infrared heat to basically melt the top three inches of driveway surface could help to make seamless, crackless patches or even to fill depressed, sunken areas that allowed water to puddle on the surface.

"I've heated up 30-year-old pavement," Mr. Eosso said, explaining that once the surface was heated sufficiently, the asphalt had nearly the same consistency as it did when first installed. When that happens, he said, additional material can be added and blended with the existing material, and then raked and tamped for a virtually invisible repair.

Since the heating, raking and tamping process takes time and special equipment, the cost varies depending on the extent of the repair, with a minimum charge being about $500. And in some cases, Mr. Eosso said, a driveway is in such bad condition that the only effective solution is to replace it.

In most cases, he said, a standard quality driveway must have a base of at least four inches of three-quarter-inch gravel covered by at least two-and-a-half inches of blacktop.

"After you install the gravel, you should let it sit at least two weeks for settlement," Mr. Eosso said, adding that installing the asphalt without allowing the gravel to settle will lead to cracks and depressions in the finished product. A contractor must also consider the soil conditions under the driveway to install a driveway that will last. For example, he said, while a standard driveway will perform well on sandy, well-drained soil, additional steps must be taken when the soil is poorly drained clay.

For such conditions, Mr. Eosso said, it is often necessary to excavate down eight inches and then install a water-permeable "road fabric" before backfilling with four inches of gravel. "The fabric allows for drainage but keeps the gravel from sinking into the clay," he said, adding that after the gravel has settled, it is then topped off with two layers of asphalt. "That's the gold standard," he said, adding that such a driveway would cost about $3.25 a square foot, about a dollar more a square foot than a standard driveway.

Mr. Eosso said that there are also a number of options for lining the edges of a new driveway.

"Belgian Block is the best and the most expensive," he said, referring to large, whitish-gray stone that costs as much $20 a linear foot. Another possibility, he said, is to set paving stones in cement along the edges of the driveway. "Pavers range from $14 to $16 a foot," he said. Another popular option, Mr. Eosso said, is to use an L-shaped metal bracket called Permalock. "It's easy to install and it makes the edge perfectly straight," he said, "And it only costs about $6 a foot."

Ron Belizze, president of Yonkers Paving Concepts in Yonkers, said that there are also options available for replacing an existing driveway using concrete or interlocking bricks known as paving stones.

Concrete, Mr. Belizze said, while durable, is also expensive. "You can spend anywhere from $6 to as much as $15 a square foot for concrete," he said, adding that the difference would generally depend upon the thickness of the concrete, with the best-quality driveways being six to eight inches thick.

Another possibility, Mr. Belizze said, is to build a driveway out of interlocking paving blocks. "To do pavers properly, you have to excavate a minimum of eight inches and lay down a bed of crushed rock and stone," he said, adding that pavers cost $10 to $12 a square foot.

Those who want the look of stone while paying only a bit more than they would pay for asphalt can use "imprinted asphalt" known as StreetPrint, which costs from $5 to $7 a square foot, he said.

"Basically, we install a traditional asphalt driveway and then we lay down steel wire rope templates on the fresh pavement," Mr. Belizze said. The templates - which act like waffle irons - imprint a texture in the warm asphalt, giving it the look of individually installed paving stones. The asphalt surface is then top-coated with colored polymer material to complete the effect. In addition to enhancing the appearance of the driveway, Mr. Belizze said, the polymer coating seals it and protects against water infiltration and ultraviolet damage.

"The coatings generally last six to eight years," he said, adding that the driveway can then be recoated for about $1 a square foot. "And if it's done properly, you'd never know you were standing on asphalt."

Copyright 2003 The New York Times Company

Help! My Driveway Has Cracks

One of the most damaging things for any asphalt pavement is cracking. Cracks allow moisture to penetrate the pavement. In the winter this moisture can freeze causing a multitude of more serious problems. In the warmer months weeds or grass can take root in the cracks causing extensive damage. There is one thing for sure; a crack is a future pothole waiting to happen.

Of course professional crack repair using specialized hot applied materials is best but if the cracks are not too numerous or large often the homeowner can be the first line of defense against the inevitable damage caused by cracks in asphalt pavements.

First we need to mention that not all cracks are created equal. If you have what is referred to as "alligator" or "chicken wire" cracking (terms used because the cracks resemble alligator skin or chicken wire) sealing won't help. This is characterized by numerous cracks close together forming a block pattern resembling the terms above. If this condition has existed long enough the area may be sunken slightly. These areas are already potholes and need professional repair. While they may not look like a pothole; all it takes is for one block to come out, and the entire area will soon loosen and come apart leaving a pothole. These areas should be professional repaired before this happens to minimize the damaged area and avoid more costly repairs later.

We also need to mention that pavement "sealers" (if you seal your asphalt yourself) are not suitable for filling cracks. Sure, you can put enough pavement sealer in the cracks to make it appear they are filled, but pavement sealers are made for the surface, not for cracks, and will quickly crack themselves and leave the crack open to damage again.

For common cracks there are many products available in home & hardware stores. We can't possibly know all the "brands" so look for one that contains rubber, the more the better. These products are usually packaged in gallon containers or caulking gun tubes although the tubes are sometimes far more expensive if you have very many cracks to fill. Reading the labels to find the best ingredients may be difficult but in general, if the store has more than one grade of product this is not the time to choose the "bargain" brand.

Now get ready for some serious work.
First the cracks must be prepared and cleaned. This means all vegetation must be removed. Sometimes this will require several treatments of a weed & grass killer (be sure it contains no petroleum products). You want to be 100% sure any vegetation is dead all the way to the roots or it will re-appear through the sealed crack. Then you may need to use some type scraper like a putty knife or screwdriver to be sure to get all the vegetation & roots possible out of the cracks.

Now the cracks need to be cleaned. If you have a leaf blower you may be able to scrape any dirt, gravel, or other debris loose then blow the cracks clean. A pressure washer may be used if care is taken to not leave any muddy residue on the sides of the crack walls and not to "blast" water underneath the surrounding pavement. If water is used the crack must be allowed to dry thoroughly before proceeding. Getting the cracks clean & free of debris is a most important step to achieve good results.

Now we can begin filling the cracks. Pick a warm sunny day with no rain forecast for 36-48 hours. Double check to be sure the cracks are still clean & dry. Most products come in packages with a spout of some kind. Apply the filler just until it is flush with the surface. You may want to keep a putty knife or old spatula handy in case you get a bit too much so you can smooth out the excess.

Once you have completed filling the cracks wait to walk or drive on the area for at least several hours depending on the weather to give the filler time to begin drying.

You may also find that as the filler dries it shrinks somewhat, leaving the filler below the pavement surface. If this happens you need to go over the cracks again to be sure the finished product is level with the pavement surface.

If your driveway has cracks make this a priority on your "to do" list. It is an investment that will pay for itself many times over by saving more extensive maintenance and repairs and by helping your pavement last as long as possible.

Perhaps after reading all this you have concluded that filling cracks is not as easy as it might seem; especially if you have a lot to do. If you are not physically able or don't have the time, contact a professional contractor. They not only have the manpower, but a professional contractor will have specialized equipment to more effectively prepare the cracks and a higher quality product to produce a better, longer-lasting, finished result.

 

We invite you to search for through our website, or call us if you have any questions. We provide free estimates with no obligation and guarantee our work. 

Striping Parking Lot

How to square a parking lot before layout:

All of your measurements should relate to one line - your base line. Choose the placement of this line carefully. Maybe if you have a long straight curb, you can use this as your base line. If the parking lot serves a building, make sure that the parking spaces will be square and parallel to the building. Once you have a base line, you need to turn a line at 90 degrees to this line. Here's how we do it:

Once you have your base line, go ahead and lay out the ends of the parking spaces. In this case they are all at 9 foot intervals. Select a mark to use as your center mark, count an equal number of marks on either side, and use your long tape to draw an arc roughly at right angles to your base line. Snap a line from your center mark through the point where the arcs intersect. This line will be at 90 degrees from the base line. The longer the lines used, the more accurate the right angle will be.

Pavement Performance and Deterioration Process

Pavement condition evaluation is the key to determining proper routine maintenance activities. Below you can see how pavement deteriorates over time with cracks, water, and other variables.

How Pavements Fail - Part 2

Increased Loads Accelerate Pavement Failure
The loads imposed by vehicles on parking lots, loading docks, and streets have increased historically both in magnitude and frequency. Weight limits for trucks were increased in the 1980s. Industry efficiencies have
led to an increase in the size of trucks. Truck size and weights have increased as a consequence. With more online shopping and ecommerce comes a rapid increas in trucks and delivery. Freight tonnage in the San Francisco Metro Area is estimated to double by 2030; 72% of this will be carried on trucks, up from 63% today. The region's travel forecast model estimates that between 2000 and 2020, the number of medium and heavy truck trips nearly double. The Port of Oakland is the hub of freight activity for the Bay Area. Arterial streets and parking lots that serve the Bay Area's industrial areas have the highest volume of medium and heavy truck trips today and in the future. Bay Area surface streets carry much of the truck freight that access Port facilities and truck freight terminals. Buses have increased in size and weight in the past two decades and bus trips are also growing at a pace that equals or exceeds the rate of growth in travel demand.

The sum result of these factors is an increased load demand on key freight routes and transit corridors and
accelerated pavement failure. Streets are failing at a faster rate than they did in the past and the requirements for pavement maintenance continues to increase. These trends are being felt world wide and
are due to just-in-time manufacturing, disinvestment in rail and other surface transportation modes. The
factors that influence pavement failure are well documented and need to be recognized in strategies to
address pavement management.

If companies and organizations wait too long to maintain asphalt pavement surfaces, it will cost 2X or 3X more to rehabilitate and reconstruct in the immediate future.

How Pavements Fail - Part 1

A variety of factors influence the life expectancy of parking lot and street pavements. Most of the Bay Area's streets and parking lots are constructed with an asphalt surface over a rock base. This type of construction is referred to as a "flexible pavement". The factors that contribute to failure for flexible pavements can generally be categorized in two
groups:

Loads:
Most arterial and collector pavement deterioration is associated with vehicle use or loads. Loads are the
vehicle forces exerted on the pavement by automobiles, trucks and buses. These forces create stress and
deformation within the pavement structure. Repeated loading creates fatigue and resulting distress in the
pavement. Excessive loading can lead to rapid deterioration of the pavement structure evidenced by cracking and distortion of the pavement surface. Damage caused by vehicles goes up exponentially with weight. A single large truck can cause as much damage as several thousand automobiles. Buses typically have an even larger load impact than heavy trucks due to the limited number of axles and tires they employ to distribute their weight.

Environmental Factors:
Surfaces that receive little use (such as local/residential streets) will eventually deteriorate due to environmental factors. Oxidation of the asphalt causes the binder to age and lose it capability to bind the asphalt. The pavement will then begin to deteriorate as evidenced by an asphalt structure that is crumbling and raveling. Other environmental factors such a frost heave and extreme heat also accelerate the deterioration of asphalt pavements.

Load and Environmental Factors Combined Result In Pavement Failure
As time passes, continual loading in the wheel paths causes the flexible pavement to wear out and lose its
flexibility. This causes the pavement to compress and stiffen forming ruts in the wheel paths. As wheel
loading continues, lack of flexibility in the pavement causes hairline longitudinal cracks to form. Continued
loading causes these cracks to grow in length, width, and depth. As the pavement surface wears due to studded tires and chains, it loses its ability to shed water. Water then collects in the ruts in the wheel paths and then in the longitudinal cracks. As the cracks deepen they eventually reach the aggregate base. Water then drains from the surface into the base. This water intrusion causes the base to soften. As the base softens, it can not support the pavement above it. Continual loading on the surface over a "mushy" base stresses the pavement beyond its ability to flex and the cracking grows into a patchwork of alligator
cracking. This additional cracking allows more water penetration. This pavement is now on its way to major
failure.

With all the rain, potholes, water penetration...it's a good time to start thinking about asphalt maintenance for 2009.

More Asphalt Cracking

Reflective cracking
Reflective cracking, or cracks that show through overlayed areas, are caused by overlaying existing pavement without properly repairing the cracks in the original pavement. As the moisture and other substances seep into the base and subgrade of the pavement, the original cracks will eventually show through or reflect into the overlayed area if not properly repaired.

Crack Sealing Deficiency
Crack Sealing Deficiency occurs when the sealant or fill used to repair cracks is no longer effective or sufficient.
This deficiency can develop due to improper installation of sealant or fill as well as more serious underlying base
or subgrade issues. This deficiency is usually noticeable due to water or moisture coming to the pavement
surface or vegetation growing through the sealant or fill, both due to insufficient fill of the cracks' depth. Crack
Sealing Deficiency can also develop if application temperatures are inadequate or if insufficient amounts of Black Beauty are applied to the cracks after application. Both of these will cause the cracks to lift up into tires when driven on.

In this picture, insufficient clean out of the cracks prior to sealant or fill application has led to the vegetation
growing through the sealant or fill 

Remedy
Before cracks become so prevalent that cutting and patching is necessary, cracks between ¼" and 1" wide can be
filled or sealed with poly-fiber reinforced crackfill. First, these cracks are cleaned with blown air or grazing wheel
to remove debris, grass, old failed crackfill and other substances from the crack. Then, the reinforced crackfill or
sealant is applied at temperatures in excess of 375 degrees. After the crackfill has been applied to the cracks, then Black
Beauty is added to ensure proper adhesion to the pavement surface and prevention of failure due to surface
temperatures and/or traffic.

NOTE: In the event of especially hot surface temperatures, crackfill has a tendency to become rubbery when driven or
stepped on. As long as the material does not lift away from the pavement, this is a normal occurrence and should not be investigated further. If the material lifts, this could be Cracksealing Deficiency and should be investigated.

Asphalt Cracking - repairable with sealant or fill

Cracks that form in the pavement surface can allow many harmful substances - including water, salts and engine oils - into the base and subgrade, effectively leading to the failure of the pavement surface. There are many types of cracking and many causes for these differing problems. In many cases, cracks develop because of the expansion or contraction of the base or subgrade or because of voids that form between the layers or courses of pavement. These cracks can form randomly or in the following specific forms. In all cases, if repaired while still within ¼" to ½", these cracks are easily repaired and maintained.

Transverse cracking
Transverse cracking, or cracks that occur across the pavement surface about perpendicular to the parking lot
center, are often caused by the asphalt expansion and contraction due to temperature changes and or this
movement due to asphalt aging. Initially, these cracks will be relatively equally spaced depending on traffic but
will eventually become more prevalent in the parking lot or roadway. In some cases, as these cracks become
more prevalent, block cracking forms where the Transverse cracks develop into squares throughout the
pavement. Also, these cracks may extend either entirely or partially across the pavement area or roadway.
Transverse cracks begin as "hairline" cracks - or cracks up to ¼" wide - but will widen to ½" or wider with age
and lack of proper repair. Because these cracks are allowing water into the pavement base and subgrade, lack of
proper repair or maintenance will lead to more cracks developing parallel to the original transverse cracking. If
not properly repaired, these transverse cracks will be appear with greater prevalence and the cracks will become
wider; eventually, the cracks will be so prevalent that entire areas will be broken or "alligatored" leading to a more serious, cutting and patching repair.

 

 

This crack has formed across the
entire walkway. Eventually, as
moisture and other substances seep in
to the base, more cracks will form and
lead to pavement failure. 

Longitudinal cracking
Longitudinal cracking, or cracks that form down the center of the pavement surface or
roadway, usually develop due to the deterioration of longitudinal joints formed by
separate passes of an asphalt paving machine. When the parking lot is constructed, the
paving machine must make separate passes which form two lanes of asphalt; joints
develop between these two lanes because this is usually the least dense areas of
pavement and is not properly compacted. These cracks are fundamentally the same as
Transverse cracks, despite their difference in orientation, and also allow water, salts,
engine oils and other harmful substances into the base and subgrade. These
substances lead to more cracks in the pavement and eventual pavement failure around
the original Longitudinal cracks. Usually Longitudinal cracks follow the same type of size
development as Transverse cracks: starting as hairline or about ¼" cracks then
developing to larger, more serious problems; eventually, without proper repair and
maintenance, Longitudinal cracks will become more prevalent and areas, leading to
cutting and patching necessity. Block cracks also form from Longitudinal cracks.

This crack has formed at the center of a parking lot's drive
lane, at the joint of the separate passes of a paving
machine. Smaller cracks have developed around the
original crack. 

 

Asphalt Deterioration & Raveling

Deterioration is any break-down in the pavement surface allowing more serious problems, such as raveling, to
occur. The chemical structure of asphalt inherently allows many destructive elements - such as weather
elements (rain, snow); salts; oils; and other materials - to break it down. As these destructive elements break
down the pavement surface, much of the original benefits are lost (i.e., weather proofing) and the color visually
changes from rich, black to brownish grey. This deterioration, if left unattended, inevitably leads to more serious problems such as raveling and/or cracking.

Raveling is loss of pavement material from the surface downward and is caused by the loss of asphalt binder
(deterioration), ultraviolet exposure, traffic frequency, weather conditions, asphalt mix design, and compaction of
the asphalt during construction. As the asphalt binder in the pavement wears away, the appearance starts to turn
grayish from the fresh, black look of new asphalt. Also, as the binder wears away, aggregate particles begin to
break away. This begins with fine aggregate particles breaking away and, consequently, exposing the coarse
aggregate.

As the raveling begins to become more prevalent, the dislodged particles lead to a severely rough surface and
pitted areas forming where aggregate particles have been completely removed. 

Deterioration - Oil spots

These areas of serious oil spots have led to deterioration and corrosion of the pavement surface and will eventually lead to pavement failure in these areas.

Raveling

The fine aggregate particles have worn away and coarse
aggregate particles are becoming exposed.

Remedy
To avoid the ill effects of deterioration, sealcoat provides a protective ayer for the pavement that is not vulnerable to the destructive lements such as weather conditions and ultraviolet rays.
Furthermore, the sealcoat provides a uniform surface for  areas where he asphalt binder has worn away completely.
The procedure includes:
1. The area is power cleaned and oil stains are chemically treated.
2. Coats of coal tar emulsion (exceeding Government
specification RP-355E) with a latex additive and four to six pounds of silica sand for improved durability. Application
coverage rate is 0.3 gallons per square yard.

Asphalt Potholes - they're everywhere

Potholes, bowl shaped openings that usually have raveled edges and can be up to 10 inches deep, are created
when moisture seeps into the pavement and contracts or expands, weakening the pavement; as traffic drives over
these weakened areas, it eventually crumbles and breaks away. Potholes often develop from badly cracked, or
alligatored, areas of pavement. If not repaired early on, these potholes will expand and could eventually affect the
pavement foundation.

Liability Issues
Potholes create serious liability issues in parking lot and roadway areas not only because of the potential damage
to vehicles but also because of the potential trip hazard to tenants, customers, employees and pedestrians.
Furthermore, repairing potholes before liability issues arise can avoid fraudulent and unreasonable injury
settlements. Potholes can form during any season and should be repaired immediately before worsening or
causing serious injury or other damage.

Remedy
The potholes formation means that moisture and air voids have already formed under the pavement surface,
allowing the pavement to weaken and become crumbled. This means that cutting and patching will be necessary
to repair the pothole area and the surrounding broken pavement by:
1. Cutting the area square beyond the damaged area - to ensure underlying problems that have not yet
surfaced are also corrected - with a jack hammer.
2. The broken asphalt is then excavated and the base is compact as necessary to prepare for new asphalt.
3. At least 1.5" of asphalt binder and 1.5" of asphalt topcoat are installed and compacted.
4. Edges are emulsified and sanded for proper bonding.

NOTE: Jack hammering is predominantly used because of the toothed effect on the pavement, where the newly installed sphalt fits with old asphalt in the most effective way. Saw cutting is also available upon request.

HOT MIX ASPHALT, THE VERSATILE PAVEMENT

Pavements constructed of Hot Mix Asphalt (HMA) are so versatile that they can be used in practically every
situation. Consider these examples of the versatility of HMA pavements:
• In parking lots, HMA pavements are durable and economical.
• On interstate highways, HMA pavements stand up to high speeds and heavy trucks.
• In ports and log yards, new types of heavy-duty HMA pavements stand up to static loads.
• On city streets, HMA pavements are cost-effective, durable, safe, and quiet.
• When building a new neighborhood or shopping center, staged construction can be used to provide a durable
pavement during construction, and then topped with a pristine layer of asphalt for a beautiful street that will last
for many years.

The driving surface of an HMA pavement can be customized to
• minimize rutting,
• increase skid resistance,
• lower the risk of hydroplaning,
• decrease splash and spray, or
• absorb noise.

Environmental benefits
Asphalt pavement is America's most recycled product. And asphalt pavements have many environmental uses,
including:
• liners for reservoirs and fish hatcheries,
• caps for landfills, and
• biking/hiking trails that enhance our access to the outdoors while reducing damage to fragile ecosystems.
New technology
HMA offers state-of-the-art technology. New, specially designed pavement types include Superpave, SMA
(Stone Matrix Asphalt), OGFC (Open Graded Friction Course), high-modulus HMA, dense-graded HMA, HMA
with modified binders, and thin-friction lifts.
Easy maintenance
HMA pavements are easy to preserve and maintain because the top layer can be milled off for recycling, then
replaced with a new, durable pavement. On commuter routes, all the work can be done overnight, so that most
motorists are not inconvenienced by construction delays.

PREVENTIVE AND CORRECTIVE MAINTENANCE WITH HOT MIX ASPHALT

Ken Kandhal, a engineer with the National Center of Asphalt Technology at Auburn University, performed a study of Low-Temperature Ductility in Relation to Pavement Performance on the low temperature (60° F) ductility of asphalt cement, extracted from hot mix asphalt (HMA) pavements.
From studies of the asphalt cement from cores taken, it became evident that when the asphalt age hardens to approximately a ductility of 10 cm, there was a loss of surface fines in the mixture evident.
When the ductility of the asphalt dropped to around 5 cm, he noticed cracking in the pavement. As the asphalt age hardened, it showed signs of failure.
To establish preventative maintenance, the objective is to protect the asphalt (binder) before it hardens to the point that the pavement begins deteriorating.
Thin overlay (3/4" to 2" compacted thickness) will delay age hardening caused by oxidation, increase skid resistance, add some structural strength, fill/seal working and non-working cracks, obliterate and/or retard reflectance cracking of most non-working cracks, and provide better pavement cross slope for drainage. HMA will not act like a vapor seal to cause capillary vapor action. It's designed and placed with a controlled inplace air void level thus economically maximizing the life of an HMA pavement system.

Recycled Baserock - REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE

WHAT IS RECYCLED BASEROCK?

Recycled Baserock is made from used concrete and asphalt rubble, ground and stockpiled to specifications. Reusing and recycling construction materials diverts significant amounts of material from landfills and closes the loop on materials resuse. 

Our supplier Graniterock has a recycled baserock that can be used as a construction aggregate. This baserock is re-crushed locally at various locations in the Monterey Bay and San Francisco Bay Areas. This baserock comes in class 2 and class 4 grades. It also comes in 1/2" and 1 1/2" inch sizes. This recycled rock is considered to be "green" and can qualify for LEED credits.

Just thought you might enjoy a little song about using recycled products. It's by Jack Johnson, called THE 3 R'S.

Three it's a magic number
Yes it is, it's a magic number
Because two times three is six
And three times six is eighteen
And the eighteenth letter in the alphabet is R
We've got three R's we're going to talk about today
We've got to learn to
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Well, if you're going to the market to buy some juice
You've got to bring your own bags and you learn to reduce your waste
And if your brother or your sister's got some cool clothes
You could try them on before you buy some more of those
Reuse, we've got to learn to reuse
And if the first two R's don't work out
And if you've got to make some trash
Don't throw it out
Recycle, we've got to learn to recycle,
We've got to learn to
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Because three it's a magic number
Yes it is, it's a magic number
3, 3, 3
3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36
33, 30, 27, 24, 21, 18, 15, 12, 9, 6, and
3, it's a magic number 

 

Which Paving Contractor to use?

Honestly it is a JUNGLE OUT THERE. Which contractor do you use for asphalt repairs? Which one for sealcoating? How about fixing cracks and patching potholes? What about a contractor that does all of it? Is there a solution for a one stop shop? There has to be a way to see the difference?

 
The good news is that you can get everything done with one company. You don't have to do the crack seals yourself and then call in a contractor. You can call the specialist of all your paving needs.

1. EXPERTISE: First class products, applied with the finest workmanship and backed by our two-year warranty.

2. EXPERIENCE: 25+ years of properly equipped, professional talent to serve you.

3. CEO's GUARANTEE: Our goal is that every project we complete is marked by 100% customer satisfaction. 

So when it comes to chosing a paving contractor, call someone who does asphalt repairs, new paving, ADA upgrades, striping, sealcoating, you name it...From A To Z, Alaniz has a solution for you.